Pink is Not Usually My Color (Still Not Sure That it Is)

I don't think I have much to say about this make, given that I've already used this pattern.

But let's do this thing anyway.

Patterns: Grosgrain's Simply Shift Dress, Simplicity 1690 

Fabric: rayon from Joann

Notions: stay tape, perhaps the Dritz Brand

Alterations: enlarged and stabilized neckline with stay tape, added sleeves via the Simplicity 1690 top, graded out the hips, left out the zipper, accidental curved hem

When I first bought this remnant (one yard!) my first thought was "skirt," but then I finished my microsuede Simply Shift Dress and decided to see how the dress would turn out in rayon.

I decided to add kimono sleeves and through pattern perusal I rediscovered Simplicity 1690 view C. So I very unscientifically laid the top/ blouse pattern over the partially cut Shift dress piece and cut out a sleeve (extending as far as the fabric would allow). This was all intended for a dress for The Monthly Stitch December Party theme, but I got sidetracked. In late January 2017 I decided to tackle it for my first finished project of the year.

In my musing and desire to finish quickly (ha!) I decided to completely handsew the slippery rayon with no lining. And due to my desire to try new things I decided to incorporate french seams for a clean(er) finish (thus deciding against pockets).

During the making I also added stay tape around the neckline (hole enlarged for my head, as with the previous Shift)...

...and in my inexperience using the dress form I accidentally cut a curved hem.

When dressing for church I realized that I need to make a new slip since all of mine were too long. For modesty I threw on a pair of shorts underneath (which you can see in the photos).


Thoughts during the making and photographing processes:

1. Learn how to hem properly! (I was a bit mad at myself and am slightly worried that it's more of a tunic than a dress).
2. Learn about lighting in photos. These are sadly washed out (which might actually have to do more with the background. I had trouble finding a place with good lighting and privacy!). Experiment with different backgrounds and lighting, which will be easier when the warmer weather comes. 
3. An epiphany about my hoarding tendencies. I have a tendency of being afraid of ruining things, so I avoid cutting into lovely fabric and thus when I look for fabric for a project I am loathe to actually cut into a 4 yard piece when I only need 2 yards. This makes me more willing to collect more fabric so I can avoid destroying all my pretty things. Start being bolder.
4. Part of why I'm so slow at this creation business is because at every step and half-step I reassess my plans. I'm gonna try to make most, if not the entire plan, before I make the first cut to see if I can keep the momentum going.

In the queue:
1. Falling leaves upholstery Delphine
2. Watery dots Anna
3. ?

Frocktober! (Back in the Groove)

So it's been three months since I last posted, though I have finished one or two items and have at least one non-project thing to note. We'll get to those later.

So the skinny is that just I finished a new dress! I've been having a hankering for some new garments for a while, so yay!

Photographed after a busy Sunday

Oops, thread

Actual dress color

This is Grosgrain's Simply Shift Dress and I started it last winter, January or so.

Back in November 2014 I was religiously checking Burdastyle every day when Kathleen introduced this pattern. I was seduced by the many pretty and practical iterations and the promise that you could make it out of just one yard of fabric!

So last winter I dug through the stash and found all fabrics that were around and equaled a yard in length. I compared and considered and decided on the green microsuede, a winter fabric if I ever saw one, and one that I would not cry over if this dress did not turn out.

The pattern tops off at size 12, one size smaller than my hip measurement. With a bit too much optimism I cut out the largest size in broadcloth, intended for the lining, as a test run. My suspicions were confirmed when this attempt came out too small. To allow movement I unpicked the back seam a few inches for a vent.

When I got to the microsuede I jacked out the hip measurement an inch or so, as far as the 58" fabric would allow. I decided to nix the zipper and then the dress pieces lay forgotten for a nine month gap...

... and then I waffled on sleeves (because without the seams it had the option to be a slightly cap/ kimono sleeve effect). So I measured my head and sewed a 1.5" seam allowance, trimmed the extra and pow! I could pull it over my head without a closure!

After a few days contemplation I nixed the sleeves, discovered that the naps of the front and back were running in opposite directions, realized that I'd forgotten to take into account that I'd cut the pieces on the fold (thus creating a little fold in the front and back of the neckline), unevenly topstitched the neckline and armholes, and messily hemmed and thus finished the dress at 2am. I wore it to church the next day and here we are today!

So yeah, this is not the best made dress, but it's a new make and a wearable muslin!

Later, while looking through these photos I realized that without the jacket it needs some waist definition, so here's a few more photos. 

Yeah, the he inquisitive dog crashed the photo shoot. He's very cute, though. I forgive him.


Pattern: Grosgrain's Simply Shift Dress
Fabric: green microsuede and blue broadcloth from Joann's
Notions: none!
Alterations: made the neckline larger, graded out for the hips, and nixed the sleeves and zipper

The sewing queue:
1. White Belladonne (mostly completed. Halted due to accidentally snipping a hole in the waistband)
2. Blue plaid(ish) flannel Lane Top
3. ?
4. ?
SaveSaveSaveSave

Spring Picnic Belladone

So I actually finished this back in March! (Hence the tights and boots).

This dress has been on the brain for quite a while, maybe a year or two, though then it was just to be a straight blue dress. This is my um, 1...2...3...4... 5th Belladonne iteration.

I started off with about a yard and eight inches and did some creative arranging to fit the pattern pieces in, which led to one of the back pieces being cut off grain.* There was also some repositioning of the skirt pleats to hide a hole that I missed during cutting.

*Maybe that's why I can't get the wrinkles out of the bodice...

I did my normal alterations:

1. Removed 1" vertically from the bodice
2. Didn't sew the vertical bodice darts, but also didn't draft them out (I should really make the dress without that inch removed)
3. No skirt hem facing
4. Still need to figure out the little notch above the zipper

And several months later I realize that I've been sewing bodices wrong in general. Working on remedying that.

Originally I planned a straight blue dress, but that was a bit boring so decided to add some flavor with the tattersall shirting in the form of bias binding on the neck holes, arm holes, and the back cut out. But then decided that there was too much visual interest up top so played around with which bias binding was visible, and framed the waistband with flat piping.

The construction went nicely, though it was waylaid at times with me trying to make decisions and being otherwise indecisive about where the bias tape was to be attached.

And now one of my major challenges with the dress will be ironing out the wrinkles!


Fabric: blue twill, blue and white tattersall for pockets and bias tape and flat piping
Notions: 16" zipper, self-made bias tape and flat piping
Alterations: removed vertical 1" from bodice, didn't sew the vertical dart in bodice, no hem facing, shifted the pleats an inch or two outward to hide a hole

The sewing queue:
1. Floral Simplicity 1810
2. Tan/ khaki pleated camera purse
3. Blue gathered Belladonne dress
4. Poodles on pink Sorbetto

Blue Porcelain Belladone Date Dress

This dress has been on my brain for a while.

Ever since I saw the fabric I was mesmerized by the blue and the white and the loveliness. 

I was also mesmerized by figuring out what pattern to use.

Early on my mind caught on the Belladone. This would partially be because I have not actually successfully 

made many dresses via a pattern, but I also really loved the silhouette. 

Due to concerns about the darts I swapped out the skirt for a derivative of 

The Selfish Seamstress' Coffee Date Dress skirt. And as I wanted maximum fullness of the skirt, 
as much as the fabric allowed, I used the waist curves at the top of the pattern pieces 

and with the help of my trusty yardstick and pins cut out a slightly wider skirt.

Before the skirt there was an annoying period of trying to figure out how to match the side and back seams of the bodice before cutting into the fabric. An evening or two was/ were spent engrossed in this challenge until I realized that there was a dart in the side which would skew any pattern matching so I threw up my hands,  matched only the back seam, and whipped out the scissors. 

Do do do. Along goes the bodice: shoulder seams; stay stitching along the neckline; stay stitching along the armholes to hold the back pieces together; visible stitching* of the back pieces when I decided to shift the zipper to the side seam; waistband; bias tape for the neckline, armholes, and cut out. 

The bias tape took quite a bit of more time due to contemplating whether it'd be visible or act as a facing. 

*Didn't want to try to match the pattern by turning the right sides together and stitching

Attach skirt, side seams, detour into pockets. I actually made pockets and was all ready to add them when doubts about pocket contents weighing down the skirt arose. The mind was made up when, as a test, I actually dropped my phone into the pocket which dropped both on the floor with a small thunk.

Lining: half circle skirt attached at the waistband.

Inner waistband to cover up the interfacing. 

Other alterations include 1" vertically removed from the bodice, 14" zipper instead of

whatever the instructions call for, ignoring the vertical bodice darts, lowered the armscyes by 1",

and stitching down the back pieces so that the cut out doesn't shift.

Next time I might add back that inch removed from the bodice, just to see what it looks like. 

I started with a little over two yards of a quilting fabric (yeah...) and in the space of less 

than a week** turned out this lovely frock.

Wee, now I'm going to rejuvenate by... not stitching?

(Blogging might take a hit from the sheer frustration of photo taking)

**Thank you The Monthly Stitch!
(EDIT: Of which I was too late to submit for the Indie Pattern Month Dress category)

Thanks also to:

Stashbusting 2015

and the Dress Up Party!

Basic Facts:

Pattern: Belladone bodice, Coffee Date Dress skirt

Fabric: quilting cotton (named Porcelain Blue) for fashion fabric,
 blue poly-cotton(?) pillow case for waistband and bias tape,
sparkle quilting cotton for lining 

Notions: 14" white invisible zipper

Stashbusting Piece Count: 3- 5 of 6 

(EDIT: the first publication of this post was a rush job regarding photos)

Linen, Light, and Bright

 With this photo shoot I have learned something about myself:
I don't like taking photos by myself.

 Before I realized that I needed to move myself.

Or taking photos in general.
But I digress.

I present my first Cambie. A wearable muslin (because I'm refuse to spend sewing time on something that I'm not going to use... although I haven't yet started fussing with button holes...) 

squeezed out of 1.33 yards of light blue linen...

(I suddenly remembered to smile...)

...and having been abandoned for the better part of ten months-- 

after completing half of the construction. 

I think I got distracted:

 1) because I was deciding whether to change the construction of the waistband, 

and 2) Fall weather came. 

I picked her back up because:

1) I wanted to have one finished garment after having two three months of UFOS and little sewing,

 and 2) The color matched the April stashbusting theme of "vibrant color." 

The construction was simple and lovely, even though I goofed 

by cutting the lining a size smaller than the shell fabric.

Don't think you can really tell, though.

Now for a little photo dump 'cause I'm not sure what else to say.

I've got to remember to stand straight next time.

Been waiting for the weather to warm up so that I can wear this to church.

(Photos, when cropped, in Pixlr).

Basic Facts:

Pattern: Sewaholic Cambie

Shell Fabric: light blue linen
Lining Fabric: a white poly-cotton sheet

Notions: 24" zipper

Fabric History:

Acquired the linen back when the only fabric I bought was from the remnant section, so at least two years ago. Chances are that was during my obsession to only make solid colored dresses. 

I was fortunate that Hancock's decided to call it a remnant even thought it was over a yard, 

otherwise I'm not sure it could have become a Cambie. 

The lining was part of a garage sale haul.

Stashbusting Piece Count: 2 of 10 (I won't count it because it was a UFO from last year)

Garment Count: 2 of 12.

A Jewel Toned Belladone

I was going to ask my dear lovely readers (all five of them, bless their souls) if the color of this dress would be considered jewel toned... except the photos do not represent the actual color of said dress.

So this here is one of my early forays into pattern usage where I actually finished the garment! The fabric is a Deep-Lake Wrinklease, from JoAnn. In real life it is greener than shown in these photos. I bought the two pieces (0.889 + 1.25 yards = 81 cm + 1.143 m) a while ago, one and a half years? Anyway, I definitely consider the making of the is dress to be stashbusting.  Generally after six months I'd consider fabric to be officially part of the stash (sitting there, possibly collecting dust... nooo! Become lovely garments, my pretties!), but for the Stashbusting Challenge I decided that any piece purchased during the year of 2013 would not be allowed to become part of the Stashbusting Challenge. Theoretically this allows me to still buy fabric, but discourages a lot of fabric buying. Not sure that it is working. Moving on...

As per the blog post title, this is Deer and Doe's Belladone pattern. I admit to not at first being taken by the dress. Then I saw an iteration in black... and another in lace... and I went happy and bought the lovely pattern. Kudos to Eleonore and her customer service! From the limited contact I've had with her I find her to be sweet and good-hearted.

Back to the dress... after all, that's what's important! The dress! This is a creativity blog! I'm getting distracted. Put up a pretty picture!

Or not.

Dancing or slinking aside, I went through my stash and found this fabric, which I was fond enough of to use as my Belladone wearable muslin. Construction was... interesting. I had stitched up two or three of the darts in the bodice when I saw that it was was not shaped well for my chest. So I played around with the paper pattern pieces (traced) and decided to remove the vertical darts.

Because didn't want the back pieces around the cut out flopping around during wearing, I stitched them together.

The next bit of drama was that as I reached the waistband, I realized I wanted back the vertical inch I'd decided to take out of the bodice. After some cheek gnawing and staring at my reflection while wearing the offending bodice, I decided to not heighten the waistband. I think it worked out okay; I can live with the silhouette that the dress makes.

The skirt was stitched and attached to the waistband, the zipper basted in, and when I tried it on I stared in dismay because my waist had disappeared. Then follows a saga in where I baste and re-baste that sucker in and continue going bonkers because my waist is gone. And gone. And gone. Finally I sewed the zipper in and took in the sides. It took many, many tries to get the sides even. For some reason the right side was always so much looser than the left. Finally I was satisfied.

And after finishing the majority of the seams in bias tape, I discovered that the cut out was sagging. But I'm going to leave it because the front is possibly tighter than it should be, so this sag should allow me to move my arms. Unfortunately the sag is enough to reveal undergarments at times. So I will not wear this dress without a shirt underneath or a jacket over the cut out.

Overall I am pleased that I finished this project. And I finally have something to add it to the link party for the Stashbusting Challenge!